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I've passed my anual mechanical inspection. However i was told that my rear brakes' perfom poor. Any ideas what could be the culprit? I've changed everything on my front end brake system but did not change the rear hoses yet. Can this cause the rear brakes to perform poorly?

Hello, i want to replace my rear heat shield from brakes and i cant find replacement one, so does ITR or CTR one can be used or MB6 is diffrent?

So the start of this year is going to be taken up trying to address all the little, niggly issues I currently have with my old girl. I'm sure I'll find more as I go but my list for now is 1 - Find someway for reattaching all the loose bits of interior trim/headlining. I have already had a go at some with a spray adhesive but it didn't stay stuck! 2 - Find a way of pulling out and repairing the dents in the rear door/arch, or find someone local to do it for me 3 - Replace sticky front calliper with a shiny new one and give the rest of the system a overhaul with new disks/pads & shoes. 4 - Replace exhaust system, Cat and Lamba sensor as she only scraped through her emission test last MOT. I'm hoping to fund this by selling my Factory original CAT that's currently on her, but I've been having problems getting a price for it as it doesn't have any codes on it. 5 - Find out why my drivers window sometimes works fine and sometimes needs pushing to get it to go down. 6 - Look into why my rear bumper is slightly warped on one side and giving me panel gaps that really annoy me. My wife thinks I'm mad and being too fussy but I cant unsee it lol That lot should keep me going for a while so I look forward to keeping y'all upto speed as I crack on with it. Peace ✌️ Joe

Does anyone know what size (MM), what size length and what thread the wee bolts are that hold the rear ABS sensor inplace at the rear of the brake disc and along the length of the cable? Every single bolt on mine is gubbed so don't want to reuse them.

Just looking for what I need to do an Integra brake upgrade on my VTi. I want to keep the standard wheels and PCD. Need to know disc size and any other information that I may need. Cheers.

Unsure if this has been answered, but i have a mc2 and one of the wheel bearings has gone. After buying 4 so call "4x114" wheel bearings, which turned out to be 4x100, i have gve up and decided to convert the rear wheels to 4x100 as its alot cheaper and parts are actually available. I dont want to convert to 5x114 as its a pricey upgrade and i like my 4x114 wheels (im going to use 4x100 to 4x114 adaptors). My question is though, what discs do i buy? obviously i need 4x100 260mm discs, i know the mgzs 180 discs are 4x100 and 260mm, but i do they fit the standard MC2 rear calipers, as on mtech brakes, they show a 1mm difference in offset between the mg and mb6. thanks in advance.

Hi there, me again! I've come to sip from the fountain of knowledge as usual. So as you, I was thinking about ways to make my car better, and since my MB2 has been K-Swapped I was thinking it maybe a good idea to do more improvements to the braking. So I already got EBC discs and yellowstuff pads on the front and braided lines on both the front and rear, but now I'm thinking it maybe a good idea to do a disc conversion for the rear and then get EBC discs and yellowstuff pads for those too. I had a look around the forum about this sort of thing and I looked at the list of interchangeable parts, but from my understanding going from drums to discs requires a full hub conversion. So if anyone is experienced in this field I would like to find out what all of my options are; so from which cars can I swap rear discs into mine from? I am aware that MB's that have discs on both front and rear ususally come in the configuration of 262/260 front/rear or 262/239. I would assume 260mm discs are superior to 239mm, but I am staying away from rear discs from the MB6 and MC2 VTI's because I want to keep a 4x100 wheel pattern (unless it's easy to change). Another thing is that my MB2 does not have ABS, I'm not sure if this plays a part with seeing what options I have. So overall I just want to hear what others have to say; what you guys would recommend, which breaking cars I should keep a look out for, and what would give me the best stopping power without changing other things on my car such as the wheels. Cheers guys :)

Engine is coming back out got loads of new bits to fit that will make this car 1000x better. Come along way from the little 1.4 mb2 I bought for £200 18 months ago. please share the love H22A U2q7 LSD gearbox (ATR) original H22 timing covers. full through custom exhaust (once engine is back in) full poly bush engine and gearbox mount kit for H22 Evo 5 4pot Brembos aluminium 3 core racing rad fresh painted rocker cover (wrinkle red) and gasket recaro trendlines (ATR) aluminum sump and gasket going to be my project over Christmas to get all of these fitted. any info on gearlinkage would be helpful! IMG_8685.MP4

Hello everyone. I'm the owner of a Silver VTI Aerodeck for almost 7 years now, and use it as a daily/weekendracer/tracktool. I've changed it almost every nut and bolt on the car, and still I try to improve things as we go. The full suspension of the car has been adjusted/altered for a fully adjustable coiloverset, PU bushings, changed the front brakes from the oem single piston to a double piston caliper form the Accord V6, braided brakelines, Ferodo ds2500 pads, slothed discs from Stoptech, and loads more. I've just always wondered, what are the thickest swaybars we can fit on our cars? All I've noticed in the last couple of years is that the EG and ITR parts often fit, sometimes with minor adjustments, so I thought it would be the case with this aswell. Can someone enlight me? With kind regards and heaps of respect for the build on this forum, love it! Koen

Aerodeck VTi abs not working. When breaking hard, instead of applying abs the pedal suddenly goes in deeper and locks the brakes. No abs light, no fault codes. No fluid leaks in the system. I did get the brake lines replaced last spring, so might have something to do with the issue. I've checked the lines and made sure everything has been done properly and every line goes where they are supposed to. Any idea what might cause the abs system to malfunction, without turning on the abs light?

HONDA CIVIC 'M' SERIES COMPATIBILITY DATABASE Civic5 accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions from this database and all that STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS *Wheel and tyre info....Stock ET is 45 for all M's (widest recommended rim with this et is 6.5" at r15? ). DC2 alloys need spacers to fit over 282 calipers *Springs and shock absorbers....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. DC2 coilovers will need the Integra LCA. Matched springs and shocks are specific to the weight of the model so Aerodeck are different as are other civics or Integras. *Front upper wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/400/45/zs. EK is different the bushes are pressed into the arm. *Front lower wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Front hub carrier and balljoints....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Hubs....All M's use 4 x100 pcd hubs from contemporary civics except the MB6 which uses 4 x 114.3 (4.5") pcd hubs from the Integra and Prelude. *Front ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes *Rear ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes. *Front suspension bushings....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Track rod ends....Same as 45/400/zs *Steering rack...Same as 45/400 *PAS pump...Non Honda engined Rovers use flexible hosing (mounted on right of engine) *Rear trailing arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. Drum versions can not be converted to disc. *Rear upper control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear lower control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ej/400/45/zs. Some LCA's do not have a mounting for an ARB. *Rear toe adjuster....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Trailing arm (compliance) bush....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear suspension bushes....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs BODY PANELS AND LIGHTS *Front bumper....All different, to change MA to MB you also need to change bonnet (and front crossmember?) MB6 front lips will not fit the MA without modification. *Rear bumper....MB will fit MA *Sideskirts........MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit the same mounting points. Vti-s and ZS180 having variations in style. *Front wings....All different *Bonnet....All different. *Bonnet catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same. Catch lever varies on MA. *Scuttle cover....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Windscreen....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Door glass.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Tailgate....MA/MB same apart from number plate surround. *Tailgate catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same, all standard struts will take the weight of the standard vti spoiler. *Doors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Headlights.... MA/MB slightly different outer shape. There are no aftermarket headlights. *Taillights....MB fit MA, MB have clear indicators, MA amber. *Side repeaters.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Fog lights....MA and MB have slightly different surrounds? *Wing mirrors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit same, some electric, some manual *Sunroof.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same. *Handles and other trim pieces.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same apart from number plate surrounds/ rear light trims. INTERIOR *Front seats and rails....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Other Honda seats will need modification to the rails. *Rear seats and rails....MA/MB same ZS will not fit. *Centre console....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Some models have a centre arm rest that fits all M's *Dashboard....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. The MB6 vti-s has carbon dash inserts. *Steering wheel....MA/MB same MB6 has leather finish. Rover will fit but are trispoke so you will not be able to get rid of the Rover airbag and logo. (DC2 will fit with modification?) *Steering column....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Switches etc....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Instrument cluster....MA/MB/400/45 same. (ZS 180 and MB6 have different tacho's?) *Door cards....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Pillar trims....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Headlining....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Rear mirror....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Parcel shelf....MA/MB *Audio components....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same. The MB6 and some Rovers have better speakers and door tweeters that fit all M's. BRAKING COMPONENTS *Front discs....262 except MB6 which uses the 282 system. Some companies make 282 rotors to fit 4x 100 hubs (generally as an upgrade to EG civics) *Rear discs/drums *Front calipers....Single pot lucas 262 system. Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. 282 for MB6. *Rear calipers....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ. *Master cylinder....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ.(?) Does the 'teg use this too? *Brake fluid.... *Brake hoses....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. Drum and disc versions are different. *Rear Disc backing plates part numbers. SMD000080  SMD000090 From RimmerBros (order for MGZS) Just checked still showing in stock around 25 each (as of 21/3/2020)  ECU AND ELECTRICAL OBD Loom/ aftermarket wiring Lamda IACV FIT VTEC controlers Fuses and resistors Battery Alternator D SERIES ENGINES- D14A2, D14A4, D14A3 (EDM), D14A8, D15Z1, D15Z8, D16B2, D16Y5. Engine mounts Sparkplugs Engine oil Oil filter Fuel filter Distributer HT leads Valves and valvetrain parts Cam Cambelt Cam gears Crank Pistons Con rods Intake Throttle body Intake manifold Radiator Fan Thermostat Coolant FI info B SERIES ENGINES- B18C4 Same sort of stuff TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS Shifter UJ Shift rod Extension rod Shift bushings Clutch Master cylinder Reservoir Release cylinder Gearbox Gearbox oil Driveshafts EXHAUST COMPONENTS Manifold....B and D series engines use a slightly different manifold Cat section....UKDM cat (different length from the JDM cat) Mid section....MA/MB all same (?) do rover fit? Backbox....MA/MB all same except Aerodeck which has a longer tail (?) There's probably a lot I've missed off, might be best to improve it as we fill out the list? We probably ought to have glossary for terms (stuff like DC2, EG, ITR, IM, PCD) to make it accessible for noobs and non Honda geeks

Hi would the mg zs v6 be a good upgrade for the mb

Best prize/perfomance/durability/quality ratio? I've heard Blue print makes good aftermarket parts for Japanese vehicles especially. Should be better or same as OEM they claim. Ferodo? TRW? Delphi? Bosch? Also should you ever use different pads with different disc brand? Or different combo in front vs rear axle?

Im just looking to know If itr dc2 has same discs and pads Size or interchangeable with mb6 vti

So, going for full MTEC brake change and fitting some HEL braided lines at the same time. Just gone to take the first front brake hose off. All gone smoothly, drained hose, all disconnected, removed the sliding metal clip for the top fixing where the hose connects to the brake line. AAAnnnndddd.......... What the chuff is still holding this onto the bracket? Ive unscrewed the brake line nut, removed clip on top, can't anything else that should come off or move, is it just the power of 20 years worth of corrosion holding it on? should it pull down through the little bracket? or it it part of the bracket?

Our cars are getitng older now. In fact, although they should be supporting them until 25yrs of age, even Honda seem to be running out of basic parts even. As an example, front brake components. Calipers, carriers etc. My front brakes have had some TLC over the past few years to keep them legal for MOT, but every time i dismantle them, i realise what an awful state they're in, with all the rust etc. I have taken a very relaxed look around on the net from time to time to try and see if I could source new ones (carriers especially) and it shocks me to find that this is impossible it seems. REALLY!!!??? Is this REALLY the case!?

Hi new to the forum, picked up this mb6 totally standard apart from coilover a month ago and since then I've added an omp wheel and quick release, new carpets, added an aem induction kit, aluminium rad and red coolant hoses, decat, custom spark plug cover,bonnet raisers and few wee tidy up bits, I've owned a few hondas before this, had am ej6 civic coupe with a b18c4 conversion and also owned an accord type r, but its quite a clean mb6 so don't want to do to much to it or anything done it can be put back, but interested in probably one of the most asked questions of making the custom projector headlights? And looking a nice set of alloys, recommendations? Thanks

Handy if you need to replace your abs sensors. Much much cheaper than Honda sell them for! Around £40 odd quid each. Thanks to Dr_Broon for this one! Mick's garage. https://www.micksgarage.com/d/abs-sensors/honda/honda-civic/civic-vi-estate-1998-to-2001/1-8-16v-mc2-169-1797/products

Handy if you need to replace your abs sensors. Much much cheaper than Honda sell them for! Thanks to Dr Broom for this one! Mick's garage. https://www.micksgarage.com/d/abs-sensors/honda/honda-civic/civic-vi-estate-1998-to-2001/1-8-16v-mc2-169-1797/products

Hello everyone i'm new here, just registered. I have a problem with the ABS system apparently. Few weeks ago my ABS and VAS lamps on the dash (the lamp that signals hand break also) lighted up. There are few things i figured but still have no idea what to do. 1. When i start the car in the morning sometimes there seems to be no problem with the ABS, as in no lights are on. But when i drive for few minutes and then stop the car for like 5-10 mins they light back on. 2. When i pull the hand break the light for VAS starts shining more brightly ( i don't know if that has anything to do with it ) I know there are 2 plugs for reading codes near the glovebox, One is 2p plug for the engine codes and the other is 5p plug for the ABS codes. The problem is that my 5p plug has only 4 wires (2,3,4, and 5 (1-empty)), and when i have the ABS and VAS lights on and short circuit 3 and 5 on the 5p plug nothing happens, ABS and VAS are lighted up but no bleeping. That happens on my aerodeck 1.4 MB8 Thank you all in advance!

well I'm building again but a little different this time my 8 year old son wants to build a car with me so got a hold of a ratty old coupe it's a mess and needs totally redone lol I'll get some pics for your amusement . I've never done a d series before I'm thinking of turbo so advice on which way to go would be appreciated guys .

So i managed to destroy the bleed screw on my rear caliper. I was super careful, used a correct size brake spanner but it was just utterly seized, and now it's pretty round. Any top tips on how to remove it? I wouldn't want to replace the whole caliper.

Edited 14.10.2014: Here's a small summary of the conversation in this topic and also http://civic5.com/fo...tec-discsagain/, http://civic5.com/fo...ended-pads-mb6/ and also experiences by Zuissi who used to race Time Attack with his MB6. Track day brakes for a daily driven MB/MC Brake pads: Proper pads are the most important thing. Opinions about different brands however are very varied, and not a single one stands out as the "ultimate" pad for MC/MB civics. - Ferodo DS2500: Recommended by many, but won't last many hard track days. - EBC Yellowstuff: mixed opinions, wear out quicker than Ferodo. - Hawk: recommended by some - Brembo: mixed opinions - Nissin: mixed opinions - Mintex: mixed opinions - Tarox, Black Diamond, Axxis: rarely mentioned but recommended by their users Brake discs: As long as they are in good condition, even stock discs will do just fine. Grooved, drilled etc. aren't really worth all the money unless you want the looks. - Mtec: recommended by many, but also bad experiences with cracked/warped discs - Black Diamond: recommended by some - EBC Ultimax: recommended by a few - Brake Depot: recommended by a few - Tarox: mixed opinions - Mintex: mixed opinions Brake fluid: Upgrade to atleast Dot 5.1. For racing fluids Motul RBF600 is recommended by many. Brake lines: HEL braided lines are recommended if you go RBF600 (higher boiling point), with street fluids stock lines should be ok. Brake stopper: Not used by many but those who have one highly recommend it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Original first post: A few days ago my rear pads literally crumbled away on the track so maybe it's time to do a full upgrade. So i'm looking for a full set of performance discs and pads for a MC2 that won't crack/warp/disintegrate on the occasional track day, but not so hardcore that i won't be able to drive daily to work. Any suggestions? Reading through the whole brakes & alloys section opinions seem to be very mixed about what's good and what's not. Mtec and mintex are out of the question. I used to think that EBC would be the thing but after reading Grant's experiences about them here http://civic5.com/forum/topic/8853-recomended-pads-mb6/ i don't know anymore... Comments from track day drivers especially welcome!

Hello, So I got the dreaded grinding noise of metal to metal from my rear left wheel and knew instantly that the pads were way past their service life. Went to inspect the damage, but on first inspection, disc looked fine and there was still organic material on the outer pad. When I took the inner pad out however... it's worn so unevenly! And the metal warning thing had snapped off which is why I never heard it! The pad itself is worn at an angle with the "top" of the pad being worn to the metal while the bottom still has about 5/6mm of compound left. Obviously the inner and upper part of the disc is b****red so that means new discs as well... However, I noticed that the disc itself is move-able, surely it should be bolted on properly and wouldn't this cause the issue? Using my google-fu it came on another civic forum saying you don't need the retaining bolts/screws as once you bolt on the wheel the disc sits flush on the hub and theoretically shouldn't move(other than with the wheel obviously). If this is true, then why would only one pad be worn this way? Definitely getting new pads and discs, but where would I buy the retaining screws/bolts from? I can see them on ebay, but would like to get it sorted tomorrow... I'll put up pictures of the pads and disc tomorrow.

Hello All, I wanted to ask everyone on their view for aftermrket abs sensor. Im currently looking for a used abs sensor as its £225 from dealers which I will probably get if no used one comes by.